Climbing by Classical Routes Some Fivethousanders of the Fans1 day
Arrival to Tashkent from Moscow, London, Frankfurt by Havo Youllary (Uzbekian Airlines), meeting with guide and transfer to the hotel, accommodation is in the hotel “Uzbekistan”, ****, “Sayokhat”, ***, DBL, BB.
2 day
After breakfast visit Tajik Embassy to obtain Tajik visa. Short sightseeing about Tashkent. Drive by bus or minibus to Samarkand (5 hs) (short tea break in the national tea house - "choikhona" during travel), accommodation in the hotel “Afrosiab”, ****, “Samarkand”, ***, or B&B, DBL, BB. Free time for a walks in magic Samarkand.
3 day
After early breakfast start to drive from Samarkand to the mountain International Tourist Center “Alaudin” (2700m above sea level) by bus (210 km, 7hs). Do not forget to take bottles with water, as the road and weather are very hot during summer time.
Crossing the border Uzbek-Tajik, border formalities, changing the transport on Tajik side.
Optional excursions in ancient capital of Sogriana state Penjikent (excavations of ancient town 1500 years old, local museum with local guide), visit local East bazaar.
Optional lunch and rest in local administrative center in the mountains town Aini.
Last 30 km is the real mountain road, going along the river Pasrud and narrow canyons and green basins.
Welcome dinner is at the Center in our mountain restaurant. Accommodation is in the cottages (2-4 persons room).
4 day
FB in our mountain restaurant,
Free day with walking around the Alaudinsky lakes. Overnight is in the cottages. Preparation for the climbing
5 day
After breakfast a simple trek to the Mutny lakes (3500m) along the Chapdara river valley (10 km, 4-5 hs). Lunch on the bank of the lake. Making the camp, walking around, dinner in the camp. Overnight is in the tents. Guide, donkeys, assistants.
6 day
Climbing the peak Zamok ("Castle", 5070m) by classical route, appr 10 hours. Simple climbing (30-35 degree, 650m) by conglomerate slope, simple glacier with crampons and ropes (max 30 degree, one-two fixed ropes, 500m), flat "football field) to the top. The same route for descent. Light lunch during climbing. Dinner in the camp.
7–8 days
Climbing the highest peak of the region beautiful Chimtarga (5484m) by classical route. Steep slope along the glacier with middle broken stones (appr 25-30 degree, 600m), flat glacier to the pass Avlodon (4600m) , short steep slop on the pass by small broken stones and then along the narrow ridge to the peak Miraly (5050m). This ridge is the edge of Big Koolicalon Wall (appr 5000m). Under right foot – 1,5 km of wall over beautiful basin of Koolicalon lakes. Overnight on the pass Mirali (5000m, big flat place for 5-6 tents). Simple snow slope to the top (20-25 degree). Along whole route there are at least two places where one-two fixed ropes are necessary.
The same route for descent to the Mutny lake.
8-9 days
Climbing the peak Energia (5300m) by classical route. Simple but long trekking to the pass Chimtarga (4600m) by glacier (10-15 degree, without crampons) and by small broken stones by path to the pass. Appr 3-3,5 hour. It is possible to climb the peak on the same day. But may be better to have a night on the pass taking a photos. Next day – Start to climb Energia by ridge – 25-30 degree by broken stones+rocks, then 300-350m by ice (not more than 30 degree, but hard ice, 5-6- fixed ropes), rocky slop to the top. The same route for descent.
Lunch in the camp and descent to ITC Alaudin.
10 day
A full day of rest. Walks, taking a pictures, full board, farewell fire and shashlik. Overnight is in the cottages. Guide.
This day could be used as reserved day or day for rest between ascents.
11 day
After breakfast, say "Good bye" to our ITC "Alaudin" and drive to the famous high mountain lake Iskanderkool (named after Alexander the Great). Lunch on the bank of the lake.
Optional motorboat walk round the lake.
Drive higher to the local village Saritag on the tributary of the lake, making a camp on the bank of river Saritag, dinner in the local house or on the bank of the river. Communication with locals. Guide.
12 day
After breakfast say "Good bye" to the Fan mountains and drive to the mountain village Urmitan, the capital of a former feudal domain Falgar, on the bank of Zeravshan river, visiting the local houses, blacksmith, potter, ancient mosque (XI cent.). Dinner in the native house in national tradition on the floor. Accommodation is native hoiuse on the floor or in the garden
13 day
After breakfsat drive to Samarkand. Crossing the border and border formalities, Changing the transport. Arrival in Samarkand Accommodation in the hotel “Afrosiab”, ****, “Samarkand”, ***, B&B, DBL, BB. Rest and walks.
14 day
After breakfsat in the hotel or B&B the bus excursion about Samarkand. Visit famous and majestic places of this fairy-tales sity – Registan Square with three madrassahs, Mausoleum of Tamerlan Gur-Emir, Complex Shah-i-Zindah, Mosque Bibi-Hanum, sand town Afrosiab. Optional folklore concert in the evening.
15 day
Breakfast and transfer to Tashkent. Seeing off . International flight to Moscow. London, Frankfurt.
SEASONS: END OF JUNE - BEGINNING OF SEPTEMBER
DATES: ACCORDING TO the SCHEDULE OF INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS OF HY OR LH
Prices are upon request
Prices do not include visa supports and consulate fees for Uzbek (double entries (!) and Tajik visas, official fees for visit Fan mountains.
During trek and climbing programs tourists are provided with 3 meals a day, guide, assistants, donkeys, tents.
SOME SHORT INFORMATION AND PICTURES CLIMBING THREE FIVETHOUSANDERS BY SIMPLE CLASSICAL ROUTES EASY FOR BEGINNERS BASIC EXPERIENCE OF USING ROPES, CRAMPONS, HARNESS, ICE-AXE IS PREFERABLE
From our ITMC "Vertical-Alauding" we go along the valley of the river Chapdara to the upper part, where Mutny lakes are situated.
We pass nice Big Alaudin lake, some small lakes, Piala lake. At the first time it takes appr 4 hours. But after some days of acclimatization you can run this path for 2-2,5 hours. We use some donkeys and "donkey-drivers" to carry our luggage, equipment, big tents for base camp, kitchen equip and food.
After arrival we make some walks in surroundance.
From Mutny Lakes we can see all magestic fivethousanders around: Chimtarga, Zamok, Energia, Chapdara, Bodkhona.
Mutni (in English something like "turbid") lakes are at altitude appr 3490m)
Climbing Chimtarga, 5487m by the classical route.
From Mutni Lakes we start climbing slope with brocken stones, appr 10-15-20 degree to the direction of the pass Avlodon (4600m). Path goes along the glacier, falling down from the slopes of Chimtarga, along the moraine. It is easy technically, only by foot with ski-poles, but hard physically due to altitude. It takes appr 3-4 hours with stops.
There are some places for the camp under Avlodon pass (100-150m below), but it is better to have a short rest with light lunch and continue climbing to the pass Avlodon (broken stones, 30 degree). From this side pass Avlodon is very simple, but when you rich it you can see under feet part of great Koolicalon Wall and then we should turn to West and start climbing along the Ridge of Koolicalon Wall.
Frist - wide snow slope, 20-25 degree (we always can see it, as triangle, from ITMC "Vertical-Alaudin"
Look at the picture
Then along the very ridge, almost horisonal by narrow path. This part is very exiting, as under right foot - 1,5km Koolicalon Wall and you can see nice Koolikalon basin and lakes.
This part is appr 500-600m at alt 5000m upto the peak Mirali, which is only 5050m high.
We do not climb the peak Miraly, but traverse it by snow slope. It is appr 30 degree, but it is recommended to rope the group and go simultaneously. Last part to the pass Mirali is a bit steeper and usually we fix the rope to help climbers overcome this part safely.
Look at this part here:
From Avlodon Pass it takes appr 3, max 4 hours. So it worth to do this part - from Mutny lakes to Mirali pass, to have enought time for climbing the top next day.
From this place we can see the next part of the route, including the top of nice Chimtarga
(lady decided to "climb" Mirali peak and that's picture from Mirali peak in direction of Chimtarga)
Mirali pass has place for 5-6 tents, a bit snow. So in case of good weather (that's almost guaranteed in the Fans) you can spend here good and safe night.
On above picture you can see the rock belt. It is very easy rocks, not steeper, than 30 degree and 40-50m in the narrowest place, but we consider this place as a second place, where fixed rope might be necessary and useful.
We must go along snow slopes roped by two-three alpinists.
Not more than 3 hours - and we on the top!
Some steps to the top of nice Chimtarga!
Descent is by the same way. And it is possible to spend one more night at the pass Mirali, but of course - all alpinists hurry to descent to Mutni lakes to have a good rest.
You can see these nice Mutni lakes from the top
But of course, you should keep in mind - do not hurry on descent! be attentive and careful! Our guide helps you in this matter.
Look at this picture to see whole route to the top of Chimtarga
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Climbing Zamok, 5070m by the classical route.
Start from Mutni lakes by moraine to the glacier, then along the glacier to the Col between Poihamber and Zamok (roped, one place 40-80 m of fixed rope before the col, bergshrund, then by foot run to the top by wide football field. the same back. One day is enough.
Climbing Energia, 5300m by the classical route.
Start from Mutni lakes by moraine to the glacier under the pass Kaznok, then along the glacier to the Col Chimtarga 4600m. It is possible to fix the tents on the pass to start climbing moring next day.
Then along the ridge, broken stones, then 200-300m by ice - fixed ropes, appr 30 degree, just for safety and then to the top.
Some photos here:
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